The mystery of how my wife and I found ourselves with a solitary, substantial octopus arm adorned with suckers at a countryside Spanish eatery instead of the entrecote steaks we believed we had ordered remains partially unsolved.
However, the crucial takeaway and lesson from this experience is that even a basic grasp of the regional language, in this instance Basque, can prevent such misunderstandings and significantly enrich the overall travel experience.
Jo Barnes standing on the bridge of Brittany Ferries’ Santona as it made its way to Bilbao in Spain (Image: David Barnes)
Our driving holiday in Northern Spain began on its first evening, and eager to immerse ourselves in Basque culture and gastronomy, we stopped at a local dining establishment situated just off a winding road descending from our hilltop organic farm lodging.
Following two beers and some tapas, the main restaurant opened at 8pm.
We had reached Bilbao port that morning after a highly enjoyable and relaxing two-night ferry crossing originating from Portsmouth.
This particular form of mini-cruising is arguably the most comfortable method of reaching Spain, combining relaxation with the convenience of bringing your own vehicle for use upon arrival.
The C Club Lounge on the Salamanca (Image: Brittany Ferries)
The vacation effectively commences the moment you unpack in your cabin, place your pyjamas beneath a well-fluffed pillow and store your toothbrush in the en-suite bathroom.
We had been assigned a roomy, four-person, exterior cabin on the eighth deck, conveniently positioned near the public areas of the Santona, a relatively recent addition to the Brittany Ferries fleet.
The cabin was immaculately clean, the bedding was pleasant, and there were adequate power outlets and even a television available, though we did not use the latter.
We boarded quite late in the evening and, possessing passes for the C Club Lounge, made our way there as we felt quite hungry after our two-and-a-half hour drive from Monmouthshire and the extended wait to board the vessel in Portsmouth.
After gaining entry to the exclusive lounge and donning our required wristbands, we entered the calm and peaceful environment.
A snack in the C Club Lounge aboard the Santona (Image: Jo Barnes)
Positioned at the vessel’s bow, just beneath the bridge, the lounge functioned as a kind of restricted premium seating option featuring assorted comfortable chairs and fixed tables, providing an unobstructed forward view, particularly for those who secured seats at the very front windows.
We were welcomed with an assortment of meats, ham, sausage and excellent local cheeses in numerous varieties, which were regularly replenished.
A selection of non-alcoholic beverages was available alongside, given its French ownership, abundant red and white wine on demand or rosé if preferred.
Surprise birthday cake in the Azul restaurant aboard the Santona (Image: David Barnes)
The following morning treated us to a splendid breakfast buffet featuring bacon, eggs, hash browns and similar items, pastries, cereal, fruit, bread, yoghurt, juices alongside unlimited tea and coffee.
A cooked lunch was served at midday, complete with salads, fruit and additional delicious cheeses.
Cakes and pastries appeared throughout the afternoon before further cooked meals were provided in the evening, accompanied by more desserts, coffee, tea and additional wine on tap.
Indeed, one could spend nearly the entire voyage savouring the various offerings in the lounge while settling into a novel or guidebook about Northern Spain, or simply gazing out at the sea watching for whales or dolphins, or even drifting off to sleep. (Guilty as charged!)
The monkfish dish in the Azul restaurant on board the Santona (Image: Jo Barnes)
The relaxed atmosphere, with used dishes, cutlery and glasses continuously being cleared and surfaces wiped down, in the modern lounge was, at least during our time there, peaceful and library-quiet with occasional gentle conversation and soft background music.
Elsewhere on the vessel the pace, at least during the season we travelled (March), seemed equally relaxed. All crew members were extremely friendly, talkative and eager to assist.
The main bar, centrally located on the craft, was well-stocked and popular, featuring numerous television screens for sports broadcasts and even a small stage for onboard entertainment.
The counter-service dining venue offered an excellent variety of food in a spacious, bright and airy room, with additional designated spaces throughout including comfortable seating areas, a children’s zone and quiet spaces. An outdoor bar existed but remained closed both outbound and return due to the breezy conditions.
On deck, despite windy conditions though pleasantly warm, passengers could burn off excess calories from the various bars and eateries by taking a walk. An outdoor exercise equipment circuit appealed to the more energetic, while enclosed play spaces catered for younger passengers.
Despite the tempting food in the lounge, we were nonetheless drawn to the ferry’s Azul dining venue.
Tables at this highly regarded, beautifully presented and managed restaurant required advance booking, with strict adherence to allocated times. It was bustling upon our arrival, and we managed to secure a desirable porthole-side table for two. The restaurant accommodated 500 guests on the evening we dined there.
Starters in the Azul restaurant on board the Santona (Image: Jo Barnes)
The cuisine served was simply exceptional, as one would reasonably anticipate from a French operation.
The buffet starters offered such an impressive quantity and variety that one could almost feel satisfied solely from that course if desired. From generous prawns to smoked salmon, assorted salads and dips, exotic stuffed red, yellow and green peppers alongside sliced meats, restraining oneself from overloading the plate proved challenging given the limited capacity.
We selected steak.
The delicious steak in the Azul restaurant on board the Santona (Image: David Barnes)
The server asked how I would like the steak cooked. I requested medium rare. She explained that unfortunately the chef did not understand that term. I agreed to have it prepared as the kitchen preferred. And it was outstanding.
The other dish we selected featured delicate yet substantial monkfish in a subtle coconut-based sauce.
Both courses were enjoyed alongside a bottle of Bergerac, and everything was sublime.
Just as we considered our dessert options, all lights suddenly switched off, plunging the entire restaurant into complete darkness. The darkness prompted a muttered exclamation.
However, the ship’s crew somehow knew it was my wife Jo’s birthday (coincidentally also our wedding anniversary), and soon the crew sang Happy Birthday in both English and French through the dining room as a specially prepared cake with an icing message was delivered to our table by the ship’s Purser himself. Not one for attention, Jo’s face turned crimson but she was absolutely delighted.
This completely broke the ice with our friendly fellow diners, including a particularly animated gentleman from Yorkshire and his more reserved spouse from Rotherham, and naturally we celebrated with numerous drinks and brandies along with birthday cake well into the night.
Jo Barnes on the bridge of the Brittany Ferries’ Santona en route to Bilbao in Spain (Image: David Barnes)
Earlier we had been treated as special guests of the utterly charming Marion, the exceptionally knowledgeable and gracious ship’s entertainment officer, when alongside just four other passengers we enjoyed an exclusive guided tour of the ship’s bridge.
It proved fascinating, partly because this sizable, recently constructed, Chinese-built vessel operates a significant portion of the time on autopilot, though the captain and crew remain readily available.
Indeed, during the outbound voyage proceeding at a steady 14 knots through part of the notorious Bay of Biscay (the vessel’s maximum speed reaches 20 knots), bilingual announcements warned passengers to anticipate forthcoming periods of rough conditions and turbulence.
On one particularly turbulent occasion, an announcement in English only stated that the pilot had requested passengers remain seated and refrain from moving about. This instruction came as guests swayed at alarming angles, clutching at nearby objects, glasses rattled and plates clattered across tables.
Boarding and disembarking the ferry proved straightforward. It remains remarkable how the highly skilled crew manage to load and unload all vehicles, motorhomes, motorcycles, articulated lorries and other transport, arranging them perfectly and ready to depart in such a brief timeframe.
Brittany Ferries’ Santona (Image: Gary Davies)
Refreshed and well-fed, everyone was eager to continue their journey in sunny bustling Bilbao and ready to embrace the diverse adventures awaiting them on the Continent.
Travelling with Brittany Ferries to Spain aboard either the Santona or the Salamanca (which we used for the return journey) proved a genuine pleasure, particularly when experiencing the equivalent of first-class travel in the lounge. It provided both a perfect beginning and a most wonderful conclusion to our delightful short break exploring a fascinating and historic region of Northern Spain.
Incidentally, the octopus at that roadside restaurant proved delicious. Although I believe I shall insist on steak next time!
Portsmouth to Santander and Bilbao routes: £373 per direction for two passengers including an en-suite cabin, or £461 per direction for a family of four including an en-suite cabin.
C Club Lounge: £79 per person per direction
Bookings can be made online at brittany-ferries.co.uk or by telephone on 0330 159 7000.
David and Jo Barnes were hosted by Brittany Ferries on their two-night voyage from Portsmouth to Bilbao and their single-night return journey from Santander to Portsmouth.